Day 8-14: 1 week in the Penh

Tues, Oct 21 - Mon, Oct 27

1 week in Phnom Penh, capital of Cambodia - a vibrant, blossoming city on the Mekong. We walked all over town & along the riverfront, saw a movie at a cool small theatre with pillows, mattresses and couches to lounge on, joined in a pickup game of ultimate frisbee - barefoot slip-sliding on a rain drenched field, and of course saw many 'bikes of burden' on the way.  Mark is making progress with his interviews here and setting more up for our next stop in Ho Chi Minh City.  

The monsoon rains of the region make for flash floods - turning streets into rivers that conceal the potholes.  We stayed dry in a great little guesthouse, the Manor House.  The staff were a riot when over breakfast they showed us pictures they had posted on Facebook of themselves sitting on our bikes at the front of the hotel - joking that they had been joyriding overnight.   

staff photo shoot on the CBR

Norodom Sihanouk monument (King who led Cambodia to independence from France)

sidewalk barbershop

full service - gas station & tire repair

sun dried fish

cutting edge architecture of '60s - now dilapidated community housing in Bassac region

monsoon rains cause flash floods - streets become rivers

 fuel delivery

Sugarcane makes for a sweet ride

Day 7: Siem Reap – Phnom Penh

Mon, Oct 20, 2014

Left Siem Reap at 9:45 on a good road for most of the first hour.  The paved road with scattered potholes soon turned to dirt road with scattered paved sections, tire swallowing craters and ruts like ski moguls that sent us airborne.  This was very slow going – averaging 40km/hr in a continuous dust cloud.  After a short lunch break, the road inconceivably worsened and remained the same for the next 200 km.  This, by the way, was the National Highway.  Hours later, we arrived on the outskirts of Phnom Penh – dirt encrusted with eyes full of dust and proceeded to navigate the chaotic city traffic to our resting point at the Manor House.  Whew – exhausted and proud we made it!

Left: 9:45                                      Siem Reap - Phnom Penh

Arrived: 6:30                                                                

Breaks: approx. 1:15 hrs

Driving time:  7:30

Total distance:  328 km

 

Day 5&6: Siem Reap – Angkor Wat

Sat/Sun, Oct 18-19, 2014

Walking around the Old Market area of Siem Reap in the evening and visiting Angkor Wat temples in the day.  The first temple we saw was “Banteay Srey” that was made entirely by women with lots of intricate carvings and sculptures throughout.  This was about 45 minute drive past the main Angkor temples, through the countryside where we saw lots of “Bikes of Burden”, tractors with big loads and locals on bicycles.  

 Next we went to “Ta Prohm” which has been mostly left for the jungle to takeover with trees, vines and moss growing out and over and through the ancient temple ruins.  The “Bayon” temple has the four faces of Buddha pointing north, east, south and west on multiple towers reaching into the sky.  The actual Angkor Wat temple is surrounded by a huge moat and has prominent central towers that look more striking from across the moat in profile than up close surrounded by tourists.  Last but not least was Phnom Bakheng 'mountain-top' temple to view the sunset over the West Baray and distant Angkor Wat.  The 360 degree panorama view was spectacular especially when a large group of monks climbed the steps to the temple terrace, but unfortunately it started pouring rain before we could see the sunset.  Seeing the views before the rain and getting lots of pictures of monks at the temple made getting soaked to the bone worthwhile though.  Whew, 2 days and we're all templed out!

 

 

 




 

 

 

Day 4: Thai/Cambodian Border – Siem Reap

Fri, Oct 17, 2014

On the road at 10:00 with a short drive to the Cambodian border where we waited for 3.5 hours to get processed.  We discovered that we are only allowed to have the bikes outside of Thailand for 30 days at a time with 1,000 baht/day ($30) or 10,000 baht ($300) max penalty for overstay!  Looks like we will have to cross back into Thailand before Nov 15, which may mean needing 2 visas (or double entry) for both Cambodia and Laos unfortunately. 

  We waited for official scrutinization of documents, multiple photocopies, signatures, permits, stamps and fingerprint scans and unfortunately paid too much via a ‘service fee’ for our Cambodian Visa.  We got a veiled threat from a Kmer Customs agent that our bikes were illegally in the country but that he could “overlook this”…looking for a bribe?    

All the while we watched the Kmer import/export trade being pushed and pulled on towering raggedy carts stacked with manufactured goods leaving Thailand and what looked like bundles of second-hand clothes leaving Cambodia.  

Once approved, we were on the road again for just 3 km before it started to bucket down rain.  We sheltered and waited it out for ½ hour.  Back on the road towards Siem Reap, the road surface deteriorated quickly with random potholes that would suddenly appear like moon craters across the entire lane, occasionally marked by leafy branches in lieu of pylons.  Frequently we had to take to the shoulder of the road to avoid oncoming overtaking vehicles that would bear down on us 2 or 3 vehicles wide!  Saw some great “Bikes of Burden” such as hanging chickens, slaughtered pigs, makeshift tractors towing 4 cows, family of 5…

Arrived in Siem Reap and eventually found the oasis of the “Golden Banana Guesthouse” after searching potholed dirt laneways and very nearly getting sideswiped by an impatient pick-up truck.  Our welcoming host, Bora – “nearly blossoming flower”- with refreshing drink in hand, provided just what we needed after a long day.

Departure:  10:00

Arrival:  5:00

Driving time: 3:00 hrs

Total distance:  172 km

Aranyaprathet…Thai/Cambodian border…Poi Pet…Siem Reap

Day 3: Khao Yai National Park – Thai/Cambodian border

Thurs, Oct 16, 2014

Headed off into Khao Yai NP just before 9:00 with first stop at Nong Pak Chee Observation Tower.  It was 1 km walk along a path to the tower, which was beside a large watering hole and salt lick.  Apparently it is a good place to spot wild elephants, guar, barking deer, wild dogs and monkeys. 

We heard a lot of noise from the jungle, which we thought were birds and monkeys, and just up the road at the Visitors Centre we saw a family of deer when we stopped for coffee.  Twice we stopped at the side of the road to get pics of macaques, which looked like they were waiting to be fed by passing cars.   
 
 Last stop was at Namtok Haew Narok (waterfall).  We walked down 1km to a viewpoint of the 150m, 3-tier waterfall – worth all those stairs!  Back at the top we saw a small snake beside us when we stopped for a drink.

 

 

It was beautiful roads through the park with great, scenic views and endless gentle curves.  To counter that, once we got out on Hwy#33, it was dead straight and flat – but quick to our end point at ‘Aranyaprathet’ – right at the Cambodian border.  We are staying at “Le Blocs” tonight, which is a grouping of individual shipping container rooms in a funky, garden setting.

Departure:  9:00

Arrived:  3:00

Total driving:  2:30 hrs

Total distance:  208 km

Khao Yai NP…Prachin Buri…Sa Kaeo…Aranyaprathet