Day 4: Thai/Cambodian Border – Siem Reap

Fri, Oct 17, 2014

On the road at 10:00 with a short drive to the Cambodian border where we waited for 3.5 hours to get processed.  We discovered that we are only allowed to have the bikes outside of Thailand for 30 days at a time with 1,000 baht/day ($30) or 10,000 baht ($300) max penalty for overstay!  Looks like we will have to cross back into Thailand before Nov 15, which may mean needing 2 visas (or double entry) for both Cambodia and Laos unfortunately. 

  We waited for official scrutinization of documents, multiple photocopies, signatures, permits, stamps and fingerprint scans and unfortunately paid too much via a ‘service fee’ for our Cambodian Visa.  We got a veiled threat from a Kmer Customs agent that our bikes were illegally in the country but that he could “overlook this”…looking for a bribe?    

All the while we watched the Kmer import/export trade being pushed and pulled on towering raggedy carts stacked with manufactured goods leaving Thailand and what looked like bundles of second-hand clothes leaving Cambodia.  

Once approved, we were on the road again for just 3 km before it started to bucket down rain.  We sheltered and waited it out for ½ hour.  Back on the road towards Siem Reap, the road surface deteriorated quickly with random potholes that would suddenly appear like moon craters across the entire lane, occasionally marked by leafy branches in lieu of pylons.  Frequently we had to take to the shoulder of the road to avoid oncoming overtaking vehicles that would bear down on us 2 or 3 vehicles wide!  Saw some great “Bikes of Burden” such as hanging chickens, slaughtered pigs, makeshift tractors towing 4 cows, family of 5…

Arrived in Siem Reap and eventually found the oasis of the “Golden Banana Guesthouse” after searching potholed dirt laneways and very nearly getting sideswiped by an impatient pick-up truck.  Our welcoming host, Bora – “nearly blossoming flower”- with refreshing drink in hand, provided just what we needed after a long day.

Departure:  10:00

Arrival:  5:00

Driving time: 3:00 hrs

Total distance:  172 km

Aranyaprathet…Thai/Cambodian border…Poi Pet…Siem Reap